A place were I can write...

My simple blog of pictures of travel, friends, activities and the Universe we live in as we go slowly around the Sun.



June 28, 2013

Nazare, Portugal



The wave at Nazare, Portugal - unlike deep-water reefbreaks that hold swells of comparable size - is a freakish result of a bathymetric canyon, a well-positioned headland, and a steep beach. Shane Dorian found himself hammered back to the sand by ten-foot shorebreak after his first-ever wave a the spot. "There is no way to paddle back out after catching a wave," he explained. "Relying on a water safte jet-ski is the only way you can really paddle the place." Unshaken by the curt introduction, Dorian sat on shore for almost an hour watching the waves fire before finding a ride back into the lineup, where he sifted through the roiling peaks and paddled into this beauty minutes later.

No comments:

Post a Comment

Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.