I have a few passions in life, one is surfing. When I moved to San Diego in the mid 80's I soon learned to surf. A coworker offered to let me use a board and I soon found myself in the waves on warm summer evenings. Like all sports, it takes some time to learn and become proficient and surfing is no exception. To be honest it took a little time for me to be able to stand and catch a wave, then to actually be in control had taken a little longer.
When learning you are called a Hodad, think inexperienced. But with practice you become comfortable in the water and gain control. You join the 'tribe', you become a surfer and life is never the same.
It has been more then 25 years since I started surfing, more than half my life surfing has been a part of it. I can't imagine not surfing. Being in the ocean and interacting with the waves is an incredible feeling and something that I miss when I am not able to do it.
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