
When learning you are called a Hodad, think inexperienced. But with practice you become comfortable in the water and gain control. You join the 'tribe', you become a surfer and life is never the same.
It has been more then 25 years since I started surfing, more than half my life surfing has been a part of it. I can't imagine not surfing. Being in the ocean and interacting with the waves is an incredible feeling and something that I miss when I am not able to do it.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.